Castilla ha conservado en su mesa la tradición culinaria que sus habitantes han sabido traspasar de generación en generación. Un exponente de ello es que aún podemos hacer un recorrido por sus platos, de la mano de Don Miguel de Cervantes en la figura del Quijote que la ha internacionalizado.
La gastronomía de Castilla es sinónimo de austeridad y sencillez en razón de su origen humilde, que evoca a los pastores y labriegos, aunque ha recibido alguna influencia de la cocina andaluza en la zona de La Mancha.
Esta región de España se origina en un pequeño territorio situado al norte de Burgos, en la comarca de Las Merindades, que ha sido llamado históricamente Área Paterniani. Una antigua villa romana que había quedado abandonada. Su nombre significa “tierra sembrada de castillos” y precisamente en Trespaderne, en la Fortaleza de Tedeja, se cree que podría encontrarse asentado sobre restos romanos, el primer castillo de Castilla. De la evolución de ese pequeño condado surgen las regiones de Castilla La Nueva y Castilla La Vieja, que tras sucesivas reorganizaciones políticas y geográficas han culminado en las actuales comunidades de Castilla- La Mancha y Castilla y León.
Son muchos los productos que se destacan en nuestro itinerario gastronómico por estas regiones. Pero podríamos empezar por mencionar a dos de los más representativos sobre los que nos extenderemos oportunamente: la miel de la Alcarria y el azafrán de La Mancha.
Sus hortalizas también gozan de gran renombre, como las cebollas de Recas o las berenjenas de Almagro, productos con denominación de origen que se emplean habitualmente en los pistos manchegos. El ajo se encuentra presente en casi todos los platos tradicionales. Entre los platos con verduras es imprescindible probar el “hartatunos”, hecho en base a pimientos cocidos con pan que luego se tuesta. Así como no deben dejarse en la carta las migas o las ñoras, empleadas en múltiples guisos, ni puede dejar de destacarse la calidad de su aceite de oliva o la rica variedad de setas de toda la región.
De la gastronomía de Albacete podemos decir que se trata de una cocina no por poco conocida menos sorprendente. Setas y hongos se despliegan en sus Jornadas Micológicas, en las que también se degusta el vino de la región con Denominación de Origen Ribera del Júcar. En esa provincia podemos probar las gachas, originariamente comida de pastores y campesinos. Es un plato que se elabora con granos de avena cocidos en agua o en leche, acompañados de otros cereales o legumbres; aunque en la región de Cuenca también se acompañan con patatas, setas y durante la matanza puede llevar hígado de cerdo cocido y bien picado.
Ya puestos en Castilla León es imprescindible probar las tiernas judías del Barco de Ávila. Los asados, protagonizados sin duda por el cochinillo o lechazo. La inigualable morcilla de Burgos y la inmensa riqueza de la huerta Palentina y sus legumbres. Desde el Bierzo nos llegan los vibrantes sabores del botillo o la cecina, tierra de contraste en sabores y en paisaje. Cerezas, castañas y alubias que enriquecen una mesa digna de un reino.
Si Salamanca fuera solo el paisaje encendido de sus monumentos, cómo podríamos prescindir hoy de la magnitud que han alcanzado en el mercado mundial sus magníficos embutidos. O la chanfaina, una receta que subsiste en esta localidad, además de Ávila, León o Palencia, y que encuentra su variante salmantina original en el añadido de arroz, huevo duro picado y pimientos. Se elabora con carne y patitas de cordero, cebolla, ajo, laurel, sangre cocida y guindilla. A veces se le añade pan, como a las sopas, habas o cualquier otra legumbre, o incluso fideos y se condimenta con pimentón, comino o en algunas localidades con orégano, azafrán y laurel. Es un preparado similar al que se realiza con el botillo y las sopas o arroces de monte. Antiguamente en los señoríos, los pastores que sacrificaban el cordero, entregaban a los señores las piezas nobles y se guardaban para sí las entrañas y partes innobles del animal, con las que preparaban la chanfaina. También fue una receta muy utilizada por los pastores trashumantes de las montañas de León.
En toda Castilla los platos de carne, ya sean de cordero, de cabra o de vacuno, son muy abundantes. Un ejemplo de estos son las “carcamusas” toledanas, un plato que en distintas variantes suele ofrecerse como tapa en una cazuela de barro, acompañado por patatas. Es una carne guisada que lleva tomate, chorizo, jamón, cebolla, guisantes, verduras de la temporada y hojas de laurel, en una salsa bastante picante.
Otro plato muy tradicional de la cocina castellana es el cochifrito, elaborado con cochinillo, cordero o cabrito. Originariamente lo preparaban los pastores, guisando la carne en vino y friéndola luego en una sartén con abundantes especias, vinagre, ajos y pimentón. Las piezas deben quedar tostadas y crujientes, para que al morderlas, la carne se deshaga en la boca. Es una receta muy clásica de Segovia, donde la podemos encontrar en casi todos sus restaurantes.
Con influencias de la cocina árabe, aparece en Castilla la “pepitoria”, un guisado que se hace con los restos del pollo o gallina, como las alas, las vísceras o el pescuezo, y al que luego se le añaden yemas de huevo duro y almendras molidas. También se le agrega azafrán, nuez moscada y ajo y se sirve habitualmente con picatostes.
En las tierras altas de Burgos y Soria la carne de cordero se distingue por su exquisito sabor, muy diferente al del resto de España. Las chuletas a la brasa constituyen un apreciado manjar en la zona, regadas con un buen vino de la Ribera del Duero. Deben estar asadas en su punto justo y sólo condimentadas con un poco de sal. También a la cazuela, con cebolla, ajo y pimientos, esta carne es un magnífico bocado para cualquier paladar. Con las manitas y sus callos cocidas en caldo con una hoja de laurel y luego guisadas en tomate, cebolla y pimentón picante, se prepara el típico “paturrillo”. Y con el hígado y el resto de las vísceras se hace un picadillo que, sofrito en aceite de oliva con ajo, pimentón y cebolla, se conoce como “asadurilla” y se come acompañada por un tierno pan de pueblo o unos crujientes tostones.
Otro producto de la matanza, muy genuino en la gastronomía serrana, son las morcillas dulces, los chorizos secados al humo o el tocino adobado con ajo y pimienta.
En la región de Cuenca, en cambio, preparados con los intestinos marinados del cordero lechal, encontramos los deliciosos “zarajos”. Fritos en aceite de oliva, asados, al horno o a la plancha hasta que se doren. Es un aperitivo que se sirve caliente y recién preparado.
Entre los platos de caza que nos ofrece esta región podemos mencionar las perdices en escabeche, la liebre a la cazadora o el conejo al ajillo. Nada es tan típico como una suculenta caldereta manchega, quizás el plato más tradicional de la cocina castellana que se elabora con pierna o paletilla de cordero, pimientos, cebolla, tomate, vino blanco y ajo.
De los platos más exquisitos de la provincia de Cuenca, es imprescindible mencionar el “morteruelo”. Elaborado en un mortero con hígado de cerdo, especias y pan rallado, se toma bien caliente, con tenedor y puede probarse en todos los mesones de la zona. Se unta en pan de pueblo como si se tratase de un paté y se acompaña con un buen vino manchego.
Desde Ciudad Real nos llegarán los aromas del “tojunto”, un guiso campesino elaborado en olla de barro, con carne de ternera o conejo y abundantes verduras, aromatizado con azafrán, pimienta y laurel.
Por tratarse de un territorio interior en la gastronomía castellana hay poco pescado. Sin embargo los más utilizados son la trucha y el bacalao. Se elaboran platos como el ajoarriero o el “atascaburras”, nombre típico de Albacete al que también se le conoce como el ajoarriero manchego. Se trata de una pasta hecha en base a bacalao y patatas que se unta en pan tostado, acompañado generalmente de rodajas de huevos duros. Es un plato que se remonta al siglo XVII y deriva probablemente de la brandada. También se le suele agregar pimentón y las patatas se cuecen al vapor para que conserven todo su sabor y consistencia. Algunos sibaritas le echan por encima nueces picadas y un chorro de buen aceite de oliva.
Un capítulo aparte lo merece el queso manchego que se elabora con leche procedente de la oveja autóctona del pastoreo de la región. Es un queso fuerte de pasta dura y aspecto bastante graso y se elabora bajo la denominación de origen.
En cuanto a sus vinos, La Mancha es la zona de mayor producción de España y contiene varias denominaciones de origen, entre las que se encuentran la propia Denominación de Origen La Mancha, Valdepeñas, Méntrida, Manchuela, Mondéjar, Jumilla, Uclés, Almansa y Ribera del Júcar. Ya en la zona de Castilla León tenemos otras como Arribes, Bierzo, Tierra del Vino de Zamora, Rueda, Toro, Arlanza, Ribera del Duero, Cigales y Tierra de León.
Además nos sorprenderán los vinos de pitarra y los de pago. Se le llama vino de pitarra al que se elabora en la bodega familiar. Su pisado y recolección es completamente artesanal y aunque alcanzan una alta graduación alcohólica, son sabrosos y aromáticos. Se guardan en tinajas de barro e intervienen en su elaboración las variedades blancas Pardina, Alarije, Macabeo, Borba, Cayetana y Pedro Ximénez. De las tintas se incorporan la Garnacha, el Tempranillo y el Bobal. Actualmente también se han incorporado el Cabernet Sauvignon y el Chardonnay.
Entre los vinos de Pago de Castilla La Mancha encontraremos el Pago Calzadilla, Campo de la Guardia, Dominio de Valdepusa, Dehesa del Carrisal, Pago Florentino, Casa del Blanco, Guijozo y Finca Elez. En la zona de Castilla León, Valles de Benavente y Valtiendas.
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Conformada por cinco provincias: Albacete, Cuenca, Ciudad Real, Toledo y Guadalajara, esta tierra se encuentra en el centro de la península y ofrece además de su riqueza gastronómica un inmenso patrimonio cultural. A lo largo de sus 320.000 hectáreas de espacios naturales, sus hábitats de gran diversidad, la convierten en un codiciado espacio para amantes de la caza, la pesca y la ornitología. Ofrece al visitante rutas culturales y enológicas y una importante red de balnearios de aguas medicinales. La calidad y extensión de sus viñedos es reconocida en todo el mundo y ofrece numerosas denominaciones de origen. La gastronomía tradicional es el motor turístico de muchos pueblos, sus abundantes platos de caza, sus legumbres, verduras y frutas están presentes en las cartas de todos los restaurantes que pueblan la región. Importantes fiestas y celebraciones se transforman en citas imprescindibles para degustar los fantásticos productos de la tierra. Toledo y Cuenca han sido declaradas Ciudades Patrimonio de la Humanidad por la UNESCO. Es la tercera autonomía más extensa de España y su historia se une a íberos, romanos, visigodos, musulmanes y cristianos que han dejado su marca en el carácter y las costumbres de su gente.
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